The blog is moving...

My blog is moving to more appropriate place at 27Crags. I might put a RSS feed reader entry to the news page. Check the new blog at 27Crags.

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Magic Wood pt. 1

Well here we are at Magic Wood. The updating interval might be a bit quicker, but there hasn't been much happening. There has been rain even every day, some of the days less - some of the days more.

One thing that is notable - the amount of people. I've never seen this much people in the woods nor on the camping area. That can unfortunately be seen in the woods - paths everywhere, lots of erosion and litter here and there. I guess this is the way the cookie crumbles - sad but true.

The boys from Oulu (Osmo and Niko) visited MW for a couple of days and we managed to climb nice classics here and there. Maybe the best line so far has been Höhenrausch. It's a scary highballish problem with not-so-good landing.

The harderst one so far has been Jack The Chipper. I have some video footage also from Osmo climbing it. But I send the video when I got time to edit it a bit and have a better internet connection.

I made moves to Octopussy (8A) yesterday and climbed it in two separate parts. So it seems that I just might sit under that problem a couple of hours during the following days. Let's see what happens.

For those who are thinking about a trip to MW I give you two helpful tips: There is a warm shower without any stupid time limits on the camping area in a village called Andeer. It costs 3CHF. There's also a cafe with WLAN in Thusis called cafe Cyger. I think you have to buy something in order to get the internet access. A large cup of coffee costs 3.8CHF.

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Frankenjura update

After being a week here on Frankenjura, I must admit that the rope climbing feels good for the first time in my life. I can now onsight and redpoint routes without a constant fear of dying. Well, give me a runout and I'll paralyze completely and scream "take". Apart from that this is kind of nice.

Well, there's not much to report. We sleep, wake up, eat, go to climbing, climb, eat again, watch movies and series and then sleep again. You know - complicated life.

There are two videos below. I climb Jumanji (7b) and Cumbawamba (7b+). Yeah, watching rope climbing is like watching paint dry... But some of you asked for videos :)

Today is the first official rest day. I have some PHP and Ruby coding to do. Let see what the others have in mind.

Jumanji, 7b from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Chumbawamba, 7b+ from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

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Frankenjura part 1

We started our trip from Boulderkeskus. We filled the car with our gear. This time if felt that bouldering is really stupid when we managed to insert seven pads to the Transporter (1 Satellite, 3 Dropzones, 2 Moon Saturns, 1 PAD Runway).

I was almost driving to the Center of Helsinki when I noticed that the harbour is now located in Vuosaari. No problem because we had plenty of time before the ferry would leave the planet Finland.

Nothing strange happened. The ferry was late as usually, trip took 26 hours, we ate, watched movies, watched series, watched movies and drank wine. I didn't drink that much wine but still managed to spill it on the bed. WTG.

After arriving to Rostock at 00:00 we headed to Frankenjura. Tomtom said that the drive would be 592km to Hetzendorf (our cabin). We parked our car around 06:00 to the parking space and luckily the host gave us the key although we were an hour early.

We felt exhausted and decided to sleep for three hours before going to climbing. Nothing big to report from rope climbing. I suck, I don't have any head and/or endurance whatsoever. I feel like a winner.

All in all. First two days my hardest grade OS and RP has been a German 7. It's around 6c Font grade. Not bad - if you'd been climbing for a month ;)

The (bad) boys have noticed that the wine is cheap and they keep buying sixpacks of them.
 

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A trip to Northern Finland

My brother asked me to "hire" my nephew Jani for a week to work at Boulderkeskus. I agreed and after a week of various jobs and the salary (Guitar Hero Metallica) we headed to nephew's home in Oulu.

We made a quick stop to Jyväskylä and it seemed that only one making ascents wasn't me but Jani. I made some progress with Marvin and tried to send Booty but the holds were just too slippery and the weather was really warm. The dude below is Jani if that isn't clear already :)

I aimed to prepare Transporter for the trip to Switzerland. So my ticklist was the following: Oil change, diesel injection pump's belt change, cruise control install, new brake discs + pads. Everything else was a success but the brake pads. Let's hope that the brakes will not wear out on the Alps!

The weather was mainly rainy so not much climbing to report about. We made a quick trip to Rovaniemi and I managed to climb a dyno called Uskonpuute. Originally the problem was graded 7C but it felt like 7A+ but as I remember my tries from last trip the grade might be a 7B+. Time will tell where the grade will settle. I also have a video from the dyno below.

Untitled from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

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