Eric Hörst: Training For Climbing

Best-selling book on training for climbing—over 200,000 copies sold worldwide!

Drawing on the latest climbing research, Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hörst blends leading-edge sport science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information.

Some of the vital topics explored in detail:

• Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance—invaluable for nuancing advanced- and elite-level training programs for maximum effectiveness.
• “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training of the crucial forearm flexor muscles.
• Five new hangboard training protocols for developing maximum strength and strength-endurance in the finger flexors.
• Power-endurance training protocols for increasing anaerobic capacity (critical for steep, powerful boulders and routes).
• How to execute and nuance submaximal (volume) climbing to strengthen the local (forearm) aerobic energy system.
• How to execute a proper training taper to create a peaking effect for a project redpoint day, roadtrip, or competition.
• Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output, increased stamina, and pushing your body to a new performance extreme.
• Daily Undulating Periodization as a novel method of on-season programming (i.e. how to schedule weekday workouts to help, not hurt, performance when you’re climbing hard on the weekends).
• Does running (and other generalized aerobic training) enhance climbing performance…and, if so, how much aerobic activity is beneficial?
• How to accelerate recovery on-route, between climbings, and in between training/climbing days.
• Comprehensive core training—how to build total core strength (not just strong abs)!
• Stabilizer training to reduce risk of shoulder injury and improve your climbing power.
• How to accelerate learning of climbing skills—learn the rules for truly effective practice and developing excellent technique.
• How to control your mind and emotions in stressful situations—learn how to improve focus, manage fear, overcome adversity, and stretch your limits!