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Do you know who are behind the problems at Boulderkeskus? BK's talented routesetting team is responsible for setting inspiring movements and challenging top quality boulder problems weekly. In this series we introduce you to these wizards behind the magic one by one.
Say hello to Juho!
How did you first start climbing?
I started climbing because my friends from school repeatedly asked me to join them. I was sceptical at first, but one day I gave in and joined them. I got addicted pretty much straight away.
How did this progress into routesetting?
My dream would be to make a living just by climbing and routesetting is pretty much just climbing :))).
What are your favorite types of problems to set? // What’s your favorite climbing style?
I really enjoy every style of climbing. I feel like it would be dumb to just skip out on the broad array of different movement styles. I like pretty much everything, although outdoor bouldering is number 1 for me.
What do you love the most about routesetting?
The creative aspect for sure. Trying to come up with some vision and making it happen on the wall.
What’s your process when you go to set?
Obviously the wall and holds decide what's possible for you to make, so first that's what you need to check. I usually try to have an idea of maybe a cool move or sequences before putting holds on the wall so I know where I'm headed. After that, the rest often comes easy and the boulder comes alive.
What do you find hardest when routesetting?
It's definitely hard when you're having a bad day. On those days, it feels like you can't come up with anything interesting and it feels hard to be syked for the stuff you set. Thankfully, it doesn't happen that often, and friends at work can get you through with their support. Also, setting is really draining mentally and physically so sometimes finding motivation to train can be a bit tough. That's why I don't like to set too often so I can focus on my goals outdoors.
What is your favorite climbing area/problem/route outdoors?
So far I don't really have a favorite bouldering spot anywhere, since every place has it's own pros and cons. I love Finland's boulders, but I have to say that the volume and experience of places like Font and Rocklands are mind blowing.
Watch a snippet of Juho's interview on our Instagram @boulderkeskus